Thursday, August 2, 2012

The Living Dead


Cultural sensitivity is a pivotal aspect of any Peace Corps volunteers’ life.  But how relativistic does one need to be before their own personality and morals diminish?  Most cultural practices have arisen due to economic or geographic constraints, normalizing sometimes arbitrary or harmful practices, just think of the short story The Lottery and the message behind it.  Now there are pcvs who are unable or unwilling to access HCN’s behavior with a nuanced point of view, rather judging harshly and therefore unfairly, creating stereotypes and unwarranted labels. Understandably this is due to frustrations with integration.  Perhaps they are projecting their own insecurities and homesickness onto HCNS (host country nationals, some more PC lingo).  I am not saying that I am not guilty of doing this from time to time too.

This is a story that happened over a year ago in my old village.  I had just moved into my site around a month and was taking an afternoon stroll around my community.  The sun was shining brilliantly.  Dust clouds would form wherever I stepped on the baked earth. Everything seemed in place: women braiding and breastfeeding, children chasing broken bicycle tires, and people standing in line at the pumps for water, until all of a sudden I ran into an elderly man prostrated on a heap of hardened sand.   Only the whites of his eyes were visible as his eyeballs rolled back into his head.  He was quenching for thirst as his lips hung half open parched.  His body lay limp, emaciated and without movement.  The only thing he wore were rags, which exposed his ribs and vacant belly.  Shocked I asked the people around me why no one was helping him, in my then very broken Gasy.  The villagers told me that he wasn’t their responsibility and that his son lived down the road and to ask him about the old man.  I quickly ran to the man’s family’s hut and called for someone to come out.  A young man appeared, and when I described what I saw I expected him to react differently to his father’s sickness.  Rather, he seemed apathetic and tried to feign interest, but really the answer was found in the expression in his eyes.  He went with other family members and children trailing behind him to pick up his father who lay dying only meters from his home.  I’m unsure of what became of this story.  No matter how much I inquired afterwards the only response would be that they had brought him to a doctor and a look to mind my own business. But I knew this wasn’t the truth.  The old man was dead and I couldn’t do anything about it.

 A French researcher told me about a time when he went to a neighboring village and a young man lay dead with a sweater covered over him in the middle of the busy market.   Someone had dropped him off knowing that his time on this earth was limited and could not handle the burden and or finance of moving him to a doctor or respectable place.   I was surprised that people in the market weren’t more aghast at the site of a dead body where they shopped and bartered for food. 

Death is a much more accepted in life here than it is among Americans.  This I presumed is due to socio-economic limitations.  Perhaps this is why funerals often times lack the same air of dread that they do in the West or why children are born in the dozen with the expectation that many will not make it to middle school.  Like all humans we all grieve over loved community and family members.  However access to proper medical care is a luxury not many can afford here.  Maybe for this reason people have become more accepting and complacent of death here.   Jaded. Perhaps this is the crux of a lot of the development issues here.  We are jaded as PCVS, NGO’s, the outside spectator who only hears about hunger in Africa, and even the local population.  We all hope that things can change, but a part of us feel so limited in what we can do and often fall into despair or apathy.  In what ways does apathy fuel poverty and in what ways does poverty fuel apathy? 

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